A Me’s Breakfast: Crispy Dan Bing and Lively Lao Ban
Author: Louis/易琛
Close to Kaohsiung’s main train station is my favourite breakfast shop. A Me’s Breakfast (阿梅早點, pinyin: a mei zao dian) doesn’t look like anything special from the outside. Passers-by might notice the rows of sandwiches and burgers and just see an everyday zao dian, but for those in the know, this is a special breakfast spot. Regulars come for A Me’s dan bing (蛋餅) – a fantastically crispy version of the savoury pancake ubiquitous in Taiwan.
They’ve been serving it up for 40 years, to give an idea of just how good it is. The other reason that A Me’s customers always come back? The warm, down-to-earth atmosphere that fills the shop, thanks to its delightful lao ban - “Mr. Soy Milk” (豆漿哥).
Barbecue pork dan bing with the boss' homemade xiao yu gan.
Quick breakfast options.
A Me’s is a far cry from the Instagram-able cafés beloved among young urban Taiwanese. But it’s absolutely worth stopping to dine in. For one, it’s often quiet inside, as most of the shop’s business comes from students and workers grabbing something quick on their commute. Secondly, the casual homeliness of the place makes for a relaxed and unhurried meal – the way breakfast should be.
Patience is difficult when it comes to yin si juan.
Speaking of breakfast, A Me’s offers all the classics on top of their special dan bing. You can choose from toast (土司), sandwiches (三明治), turnip cake (蘿蔔糕) – even sushi (壽司) and chicken nuggets (雞塊). But it would be a waste not to try their most famous dish. Prepared first like a normal pancake, the dan bing then gets a thin layer of tempura-like batter. A turn on the hot plate creates the immaculate signature crunch. Beneath the golden crust hides a tender interior – this author is particularly partial to one filled with gooey cheese (起司). The tuna (鮪魚), barbecue pork (燒肉)and plain (原味) varieties are also excellent.
But the dish is not yet complete. Depending on your filling and the chef’s feeling that day, the dan bing are paired with sides like thinly sliced sausage, sweet baby cucumber and the boss’ own hot xiao yu gan (小魚乾) – dried anchovies with chilli and spring onions. Everything works together to become a complete meal levels above any amateur dan bing.
The owner’s kindness and amiability are infectious. Besides sharing his new cooking endeavours, he asks after customers and treats them like a guest in his home. Prepare to be complimented. If your Chinese or Taiwanese is up to it, a wicked sense of humour is also on offer. Other small things, like entrusting diners with the bottle of condensed milk for their yin si juan (銀絲捲，another must-try) make a touching difference. He’s happy to chatter while cooking too!
yin si juan (銀絲捲).
yin si juan (銀絲捲).
Nothing quite illustrates the character of this energetic pancake chef like a story from this year’s spring holiday. A friend and I turned up at A Me’s, only to find the shop closed. While we stood on the street deliberating our next move, Mr. Soy Milk appeared and ushered us in. Before we knew what was happening, he slid a plate of guava and homemade plum powder onto the table between us. A batch of deep fried, chewy nian gao (年糕) came moments later. Only after cooking did he return to his game of Mahjong, waving away our thanks and insisting we stay as long as we liked.
I’m not going to recommend turning up when they’re closed, but stop by A Me’s any other time and you’ll be treated to a warm welcome and one of the best dan bing you’ve ever had.
Prices are very reasonable and they open every day except Sundays.
Mr. Soy Milk.
Author: Louis/易琛
A six-month resident of Kaohsiung and student from Bristol in the UK. I hope to share what makes this city beautiful to me: the people that live here, their inter-spilling cultures and languages and the pride with which they enjoy them. Probably some mangoes too.